Destination: South Bend/Notre Dame Football Weekend

University of Notre Dame campus

WHY VISIT?
In South Bend, college football is religion and its house of worship is the University of Notre Dame. 


Fans come from near and far to cheer on a university known as the premier college football program in the country. Notre Dame boasts 11 National Championships, 7 Heisman Trophy winners, and it's very own TV contract. Although, admittedly, the team has struggled in recent years. 


You don't need to be Irish and it doesn't matter your college team allegiances. Heck, maybe you're just a fan of Rudy - one of the greatest sports movies of all time.  South Bend is a great place to visit, and a Notre Dame football weekend is a once in a lifetime sports experience.


Another Notre Dame win! 

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:
The city of South Bend lies on the southernmost turn  - in which it derives it name - of the St. Joseph river. 

 It's served by the South Bend airport and Amtrak and is about 2 hour drive east of Chicago.
Plan ahead: tickets sell out fast and hotels book up quickly. 


Your best bet for single game tickets is StubHub or another resale ticket website. (Do be careful and make sure the website is legitimate.) There is a season ticket lottery that starts in January and costs $40 to enter.  You can also run the risk of trying to buy tickets the day of at the ticket box office, but good luck!


If you are planning on going to the game, make sure to keep the weather in mind. Winters in South Bend can be downright brutal. In December, the average high is 34 degrees or so. September and October are my favorite times of the year to have perfect, Fall football weather.


Downtown hotels may seem close on a map, but your best bet is to stay in the more desirable area called Mishawaka. It's a short 10-minute drive to campus and has many more options in terms of food and shopping. 


If you are able, fly in on Friday morning and take advantage of all the freebies the University has set up for you. Try a campus tour and don't miss a chance to run out of the stadium tunnel. That way, come Saturday when everything is crowded and chaotic you'll know where to head and how to get there. 

Parking is typically the biggest headache, but if you get a game plan the day before it shouldn't be a problem. There is an entire website dedicated to directing you where to park, but if you want to save money and the headache get there early, park on a nearby street, and walk to the game. However, make sure to check street signs because the city does tow and ticket cars.

The University does an outstanding job making it easy and fun to spend a weekend cheering on the Irish. Pick up the free fliers and check back on Notre Dame's Game Day website to see game day activities all over campus, including pep rallies, tailgating, and celebrity meet and greets. Don't be surprised to see legendary names like Coach Ara Parseghian signing autographs in the book store or former players being shuffled around campus on golf carts. 

The stadium seats are small and very uncomfortable. Envision sitting on a piece of plywood for 3+ hours. Trust me, it's still worth it! But follow the lead of the regulars and pick up a seat pillow, your spine will thank you later.

Most schools call it a "fight song", but Notre Dame's confident fans call it a "victory march". Do yourself a favor and learn the lyrics, you'll be glad you did! 

TOP 10 TO SEE & DO:
1. Notre Dame football game
This is after all why you probably came to South Bend. 
Start your day early. Head to campus by 8 AM (for an afternoon game) and park on a neighboring street to avoid crazy parking lots and expensive fees. 
Grab a hearty breakfast at Legends of Notre Dame (south of the stadium, opens at 8 AM). Fans will already be starting to tailgate.  

Tailgating outside the stadium

Head to the bookstore for any last minute Irish gear and maybe grab a ball or two because there is no doubt you'll run into some legendary former coach or player. 

The Fighting Irish leprechaun mascot

Keep your camera handy as Notre Dame cheerleaders & the Leprechaun mascot will pop up suddenly all over campus to pump up the crowds. 

"Touchdown Jesus" Library

2. Campus Tour 
I typically would nix a tour and just explore on my own, but with a campus of this size and history we learned a lot from the student guides. Don't miss the Grotto of our Lady of Lourdes, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, the Golden Dome, and Touchdown Jesus on the Hesburgh Library. (Free, Monday - Friday 11AM -3PM during football season, 90 minutes in length. Check in for all tours at the Eck Visitor Center.)


Inside The Tunnel

3. The Tunnel
A tradition since 1931, every Notre Dame football team has marched down the same tunnel and on to the same field for every home football game. On football weekend Fridays, you can too! (Free, Friday only, 10AM - 5PM at the North Tunnel of Notre Dame Stadium - across from Touchdown Jesus)

Fans cheering players on their walk to the stadium

4. Team walk to stadium
Between an hour and half to 2 hours before kickoff, the football team completes the traditional pre-game mass in the Sacred Heart Basilica and walks over together to the stadium.. The route is traditionally lined with Irish fans giving the team some last minute encouragement. 


Follow the team and crowds over to the stadium. Before you set foot in the legendary sports venue, mosey outside and pay homage to four legendary Notre Dame football coaches: Knute Rockne (The North Tunnel), Ara Parseghian (Gate B), Frank Leahy (Gate C), & Lou Holtz (Gate D).


Stadium gates open one hour before kickoff.

5. Corby's & The Linebacker Lounge
Alumni and students flock to these bars to cheer on the Fighting Irish! Corby's is downtown and The Linebacker is within walking distance of the stadium.


SAVVY TIP: Corby's is where Rudy drunkenly announced he wasn't really a Notre Dame student and was in turn, no longer allowed to be a booster.

6. Bonnie Doon's
Only two locations remain of the area's original 1950's vintage drive-in soda shops. Try a cheeseburger and one of their famous sodas. (52446 Dixie Way North South Bend, IN or 109 E. 4th Street Mishawaka, IN)


7. College Football Hall of Fame
Over a century of American college football. But hurry, the HOF is expected to relocate to Atlanta in the Spring of 2013. (Football weekends Fri & Sat 8AM - 8PM, Sunday 8AM - 5PM)


8. Studebaker National Museum
This impressive collection of 80 cars gives visitor's a glimpse into the South Bend automaker's 108 year history. (895 Thomas Street, $8/adults, M-F 10 AM - 5 PM, Sun 12 PM - 5PM) 


9.  East Race Waterway
If you visit in the Summer months, don't miss this 1,900 foot long whitewater rafting course along the St. Joseph river in downtown South Bend.  (Typically open mid-June - mid-August, Saturdays & Sundays, $5/per person. See requirements.)


10. Farmer's Market
Don't miss breakfast at the market's cafe which has been serving delicious meals from locally-made produce for 85 years. (1105 Northside Boulevard, Friday 7 AM - 2PM, Saturday 7 AM - 3 PM)


USEFUL LINKS:
Campus Map (Printable PDF)
Campus Map (Interactive)
Residence Inn South Bend Mishawaka



Groupon for Travel!

By now you’ve probably heard of Groupon – the members-only shopping website that sends out one, daily deep-discounted deal on everything from restaurants to clothes. Now there’s a new kid in town catering to the traveling set. TripAlertz is promising “epic savings on premium getaways”.

Essentially the gist is the more people that book a travel deal, the cheaper the price becomes, and when the website’s clock hits zero, everyone pays the same price.

TripAlertz is currently accepting members, and just like Groupon, it’s free to sign up. The deals don’t officially start until Oct. 19th Oct. 26th, but you can browse a few upcoming trips. So far it's looking like the specials are mainly for Florida, California, and Mexico.

I think the real test will be to see if the supply will fulfill demand. So far TripAlertz has registered 5,000 members. Groupon on the other hand? Over 2 million! As long as there are enough 4+ stars hotels to go around, in locations you really want to visit, I think it's genius!

So do 14 celebrity fans like American Idol host Ryan Seacrest, singer Alicia Keys & skateboarder Tony Hawk who have all endorsed TripAlertz on Twitter.

Paying Internationally

Sneakers? Check.

Camera? Check.

Passport? Check.

But wait, you’re not yet ready to travel! How are you going to pay for it all? When traveling abroad, it pays to plan ahead. Literally.



Euros are accepted most everywhere in Europe



CASH IS KING

…and I mean Euros, Yen, or whatever! No matter where you go people always prefer bills to cards.

Whatever you do, don’t go to one of those Currency Exchange kiosks to switch out your dollars. Sure they may be convenient, but you’ll pay for it. Most exchange counters charge 5-8% in fees.

Instead, call around to your local bank and find which bank offers the best rate. The Euro is bouncing back from its lows earlier this year, but you should be able to find a rate of around 1.438 meaning for every $1000 U.S. dollars, you’ll get 695 Euros. To get a big picture idea (a.k.a. - before the bank adds on its fees), try Yahoo's Currency Converter, to see how far your dollar will go.

If you have access to TD Bank in the Northeast, I highly recommend its services as they charge nominal rates. Credit unions and to a lesser extent AAA are two other great places to try and switch your dollars to the desired currency. Always call ahead and try several days in a row to try to gauge day-to-day exchange rate volatility.


USE YOUR DEBIT CARD SPARINGLY

You’re not protected. Should your wallet be stolen or you get double charged, you’ll have a more difficult time disputing incorrect charges.

To limit ATM fees while traveling, try to make one or two large withdrawals as opposed to five or six smaller ones. Also, most banks limit ATM withdrawals to $200 or $300 so check with your bank or ask your bank to raise this limit before you head abroad.



NOT JUST ANY CREDIT CARD WILL DO
Many banks charge at least a 2% fee on credit and debit card purchases made outside the United States on top of the minimum 1% currency-exchange fees levied by Visa and MasterCard. That can be brutal, especially when you factor in the U.S. dollar/Euro exchange rate!

Currency transaction fees won’t be listed anywhere on your credit card statement. You’re going to have pick up the phone, call, and ask your credit card company how much it charges. But allow me to help you…There’s only one, count ‘em, ONE credit card that doesn’t tack on a foreign currency conversion fee. It's Capital One. It just may be worth it to get a Capital One card before your trip if but for no other reason to save on those hefty fees!


TRAVELERS' CHEQUES
Who needs them?! The world of plastic has forever changed access to cash abroad. With ATMs popping up nearly everywhere it's as simple as inputting your pin and money spitting right out.

However, I would never say travelers cheques are a bad idea. You just run the risk of not being able to cash them in a small city or small business. The smart bet is using them as emergency back-up should something happen to your ATM and/or credit cards. Make sure you keep them separated from each other in case your purse/bag is stolen. Also, stick with Visa or American Express branded travelers cheques; they are known worldwide.


KEEP THINGS SECURE
And don’t forget to keep things secure! Forget the wallet or designer purses. I find it best to keep your debit card and the bulk of your bills in your money belt. Then carry enough cash for the day and your credit card in a secure bag like PacSafe sells.


THE BOTTOM LINE
Lots of cash - stored safely.
Capital One credit card for large purchases.
ATM once or twice during the trip, withdrawing larger sums each time.
Travelers cheques only as backup.

Destination: Kansas City

Downtown Kansas City skyline

WHY VISIT?

Kansas City keeps "America's Heartland" beating with jazz, fountains, and barbecue. Maybe more folksy than fancy, this fabulous city (and my hometown) will surprise you with everything it has to offer.

Dubbed "The City of Fountains", Kansas City has over 200 fountains - second only to Rome. The city also is home to more boulevards than any other city except Paris earning its nickname as the "Paris of the Plains". 

Located at the confluence of Kansas and Missouri rivers and bordering both state lines, Kansas City is a great weekend destination. 

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:
The Kansas City International Airport (MCI) lies north of the city and is typically about a 20-30 minute drive to most major destinations.

Cabs are easy and reliable from the airport. Walk outside and pick up the yellow phones and talk with the operator. A taxi will be curbside in less than 5 minutes.

J.C. Nichols Memorial Fountain on the Plaza

Since the city is so spread out and public transportation is quite limited, I would recommend a rental car.

Kansas City is often described as the "metro" because there are many outlying areas that make up the metropolitan area. Here's a neighborhood breakdown with a each area's major attractions:

• North (a.k.a - "Northland" or "North of the River") - Zona Rosa shopping area, the airport, Worlds & Oceans of Fun
• East (Independence) - Arrowhead & Kauffman stadiums, Pres. Harry Truman heritage sites
• Southwest (Overland Park, Olathe) 
• West (Bonner Springs, Kansas City, KS) - Kansas Speedway. The Legends shopping area 
• Downtown - Power & Light District, Bartle Hall Convention Center, Performing Arts Center (coming next September)
• The Country Club Plaza (a.k.a. - The Plaza)

The Plaza is your best bet in terms of a place to stay. It is a central location and beautiful area. Try Embassy Suites or the Raphael Hotel.

Most of the major tourist areas are safe, but due to it's popularity I would keep an eye on your wallet and/or purse on the Plaza.


Downtown Kansas City



Pass on sketchy Westport nightlife and head to the new KC Power & Light district in downtown KC. This 9-block entertainment hot spot is part of a recent $5B downtown makeover. Do know the open-air atmosphere can at times feel like a fraternity party.

For a more low-key evening, your best bet is the jazz for which KC is famous. Check out The Majestic Restaurant in Downtown. Once a prohibition-era speakeasy, the Majestic hosts live jazz every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night. (No cover charge)

Boulevard is a local brewery that makes a great wheat beer. Give it a try! Tours available as well.

Our nation's 33rd President was born and lived much of his life in Independence. A 20 minute drive will take you from downtown Kansas City to Independence where you can visit Pres. Harry Truman's home and museum.

In addition to  Pres. Truman, Walter Cronkite, Jean Harlow, Ginger Rogers, golfer Tom Watson, and handbag designer Kate Spade are all from the area.

The Country Club Plaza 

TOP 10 TO SEE & DO: 

1. The Country Club Plaza
Designed in 1922 as the nation's first suburban shopping district, the Plaza is an open-air public art gallery with fountains, sculptures and murals that bring out the best of the Old World and the new. The entire 15-block district is filled with more than 150 shops and dozens of restaurants, serving as a sort of a "Rodeo Drive" of the midwest with a Spanish flair.

You'll find everything from the Gap to Tiffany's and McDonald's to ritzy Bristol. Don't miss popcorn & a limeade at Topsy's - a KC institution - and Kansas City's finest department store Hall's.

Barbecue KC-style at Oklahoma Joe's

2. Barbecue

You can’t visit Kansas City without eating its world-famous barbecue!  There are more than 90 restaurants and the annual American Royal hosts one of the world's biggest BBQ contests. 


Smokehouse, Fiorella's Jack Stack, Arthur Bryant's, and Oklahoma Joe's are (in order) my favorites. Burnt ends, the flavorful pieces of meat cut from the ends of smoked beef or pork brisket, are a KC specialty, but you really can’t go wrong no matter what you order. Do make sure to try the unique style of baked beans.

3. Steak

Ever hear of a Kansas City strip steak? Yeah, thought so. Beef is what's for dinner...and sometimes even lunch! Kansas Citians have long been fans dating all the way back to the stockyard days. Treat yourself at the Plaza III or Hereford House, two of my favorites.

4. Ponak's Mexican Kitchen
Sensing a theme here? Food in Kansas City is tough to beat, and Mexican food is a pretty big deal here, too. Authentic-style Mexican food, the world's best margarita, and eclectic decor make this Kansas City landmark a favorite for over 4 decades. Try the pork burrito! (2856 Southwest Blvd)

5. American Jazz Museum/Negro Leagues Baseball Hall of Fame
They say jazz was born in New Orleans, but grew up in Kansas City …to be more precise, on the corner of 18th and Vine. This is the neighborhood where John Coltrane met Charlie Parker and the same area that nurtured the careers of many legendary musicians.

In the very same building (1616 E. 18th Street) is the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, a tribute to African Americans' role in the sport. Follow along on this self-guided tour, starting from the league’s humble beginnings back in 1920, to 1945 when Major League Baseball's Brooklyn Dodgers recruited Jackie Robinson from the Kansas City Monarchs and then to league’s eventual collapse in 1960s.

SAVVY TIP: $10/adult buys you admission to both museums! Avoid visiting at night as the neighborhood is not one of the safest in the area.

Kauffman Stadium (a.k.a. The "K")

6. Kauffman Stadium/Arrowhead Stadium
Kansas Citians love to cheer on their favorite - albeit humble - sports teams. The "K", as residents affectionately call it, is home to Major League Baseball's Royals and Arrowhead is home to the NFL's Chiefs. Both stadiums just finished pricey renovations complete with HD scoreboards, new plasma TVs, and concessions. Seats are typically very reasonably priced and easy to get at the last minute.

7. Steamboat Arabia Museum

Back in 1856, the steamboat Arabia hit a snag and sunk in the Missouri river. For 132 years, the boat remained covered in the muddy waters and dirt. Excavations began in the middle of a corn field after the river's course shifted. This museum houses artifacts and all the history of this amazing story.  (Mon-Sat 10AM - 5:30PM, last tour at 4PM, Sunday 12PM - 5PM, last tour at 3:30)

8. World's of Fun/Oceans of Fun

Missouri's version of Disney World. Two theme parks: one filled with roller coasters and rides and the other a water park.  A great place for family fun. 

9. Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art
Just three blocks away from the Plaza, this museum is distinguished for its extensive collection of Asian art. It's also well known for it's can't-miss Shuttlecocks, a four-part outdoor sculpture of oversize badminton shuttlecocks. Admission is free every day. (4525 Oak Street, Closed Monday & Tuesday)

Crown Center

10. Crown Center/Hallmark's Visitors Center
Located in the heart of downtown Kansas City, Crown Center is three levels of shopping and dining, flanked by two of the city's largest hotels (Hyatt Regency & The Westin), surrounding the worldwide headquarters of Hallmark Cards.

There are plenty of creative activities for kids including Kaleidoscope (hands-on art creation), The Coterie Theater, and the Crown Center Ice Terrace (ice skating in the winter). Don't forget to go behind the scenes at the Hallmark Visitor Center where adults and children alike can decorate their own cards. (2450 Grand Blvd., Closed Sundays)

DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME:

• Kanas City Zoo - A so-so zoo in a less than desirable area. 
• Gates BBQ - fatty barbecue and my least favorite in the entire city
• The Casinos: Harrah's, Ameristar, Argosy, & Isle of Capri - it's Missouri people, not Nevada. Let's leave smoke-filled gambling to the professionals.

LINKS: 
Kansas City Map

Country Club Plaza Restaurants
Country Club Plaza Stores

Destination: Rome Day Trips

Amalfi Coast

There's so much to see and do in Rome, but if you are able to add a day or two to your trip here are three destinations not to be missed. All are an easy train, car, and/or boat ride from Rome.

AMALFI COAST 

This gorgeous stretch of coastline on the south side of Italy is filled with breathtaking views, rocky beaches, and bright-colored hillside villages.

To make the very most of your visit on the Amalfi Coast, hire a driver/guide to pick you up at the Naples train station to start your day. We had great success with Alberto at AP Tours. We were able to design the trip to our specifications. Below is a map of our itinerary, all of which can be packed into one in a day. Expect to pay 280-360 Euros for two for the day depending upon the number of passengers and destinations chosen.

SAVVY TIP: Make sure to request a vehicle that allows you to sit up higher (a van instead of a sedan) so you can take in the beautiful views above the road's guide rail. And whatever you do, don't drive! The roads are much too narrow and should be left only to the pros.


View Larger Map

Take the earliest train from Rome to Naples (shown on the map above as "A"). We drove past Pompeii and on to the Amalfi Coast first. From East to West, we stopped and visited Ravello ("B"), Amalfi ("C"), and our favorite Positano ("D").  On our way back to Naples to catch our return train to Rome we stopped in Pompeii ("E").

Ravello town square

Ravello 

The best views of the Amalfi Coast are here. Make sure to visit the beautiful gardens at Villa Rufolo just off the town square. Ceramic plates are the souvenir specialty. Don't miss the small, but well respected Ravello-brand wines all grown, aged, and bottled in the area. 

Amalfi's Duomo

Amalfi

The coast's largest town and popular resort destination was once one of the world's greatest naval powers. Taste the good life with an after-dinner limoncello drink.  Make sure to check out the Duomo (The Cathedral) off the main square.  

Positano's waterfront

Positano

The Amalfi Coast's beauty is personified here. Gorgeous beaches, fragrant citrus groves and beautiful white buildings built right into the cliffs make this my favorite destination on the Amalfi Coast. To enjoy, just mosey through the shops and down the beaches to dip your toes in the Mediterranean. Ask your guide to take you high up in the hillside to taste the best homemade meal in all of Italy (and the views aren't too shabby either!) at Trattoria La Tagliata.

Pompeii's ruins

POMPEII

In AD 79  Mount Vesuvius erupted, burying the city of Pompeii in 20 feet of pumice and ash. 20 FEET! Excavation did not begin until 1748 revealing a city petrified in time. Many impressive and intact ruins are located here including sculpture, buildings, and paintings giving you a sneak peek as to what was life in a once-thriving commercial port of 20,000 residents.

Located midway between Naples and Sorrento (about 30 minutes from each),  you could easily spend an entire day in Pompeii.  We just had time for a quick visit after spending most of our day in Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Armed with a great Rick Steves' map and audio guide we flew through Pompeii in less than two hours. I wouldn't suggest it because we didn't get to see everything, but know it is doable.

A cast of Pompeii citizen on that fateful day

Pompeii can be very confusing without a guidebook or guide. Have a game plan to make this trip a success.

Replica of the Dancing Faun

Here are a few must-sees:

• The House of Faun - Pompeii's largest home covering an entire city block complete with a small bronze statue of the Dancing Faun, 40 rooms, and 27,000 square feet. 
• The House of Vetti - the best-preserved home with many frescoes and mosaics
• The Brothel - Just as popular today as it probably was then, this stop was a simple place with stone beds and pillows. Look up for what was probably a sort of "menu" of options for purchase.
• The Baths - After working out in the nearby gym, men would relax here in a cold, warm, or hot bath.

Note: The Archaeological Museum in Naples contains an enormous amount of treasures from Pompeii. (9 AM - 7:30 PM, Closed Tuesday)

CAPRI 

Rome's Emperors chose this beautiful, small island paradise of Capri (pronounced Cap-ry) as their favorite vacationing spot. The bright blue waters have earned it a reputation as a Garden of Eden.  However these days that reputation is nearly eclipsed by its stigma as a tourist trap. There's barely an off season here, but Capri is particularly one to avoid in July and August.

The cheapest way to get there is to take a ferry ride from Naples, Amalfi, Positano, or Sorrento for 14 Euro. If you are looking to arrive in style, try Capri Time Boats.

The must-do in Capri is the Blue Grotto, and it's no secret. Motorboats line up outside this grotto waiting for available row boats (the only vessels allowed inside the grotto), tourists shuffle from one boat to another, and lie back to squeeze under the grotto's narrow opening. The long lines force your visit to be only a few minutes, but the magical water and once-in-a-lifetime experience may make it all worthwhile. 

Destination: Rome

WHY VISIT?
For over a thousand years, Rome has been considered one of the most powerful cities in the world.

Sure maybe you've seen the Coliseum in the movies or the Sistine Chapel in pictures, but nothing can quite put into words the way you feel when you see all Rome's history, architecture and art in person.

The "Eternal City" is one of those places you need to experience and not just read about. I promise: once you visit, you'll be hooked.

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

The most important rule before you travel to Rome is that you MUST book tickets in advance for the major historical sites. Make sure to use the OFFICIAL site. Otherwise, you will waste many, precious hours waiting in line. This is especially crucial if you want to visit the Sistine Chapel.

Many tour companies offer “Skip the line” tours, but it’s really not necessary. In fact, I dread the big group tour.  It’s so much more fun to explore on your own. Plan ahead, and save time & money.

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican

No need to book Coliseum tickets in advance because there’s a secret trick. Bypass the long lines just outside and head over to the Palatine Hill entrance (just past the Coliseum, 100 yards to your right). There you can buy a 3-for-1 pass for Palatine Hill, Coliseum, Roman Forum, and use it to skip ahead at the Coliseum.

You don’t need a rental car, and to be honest, you don’t want one. Seeing Rome on foot is very easy. Just be smart and divide your days up by neighborhood. For example, focus on “Ancient Rome” one day, visiting the Coliseum, Roman Forum, & Pantheon, and then do the Vatican another day, etc.

It's Rome and people do speak Italian. Learn the basics to get by, but most locals know at least some English.

Romans are very friendly and violent crime is low. That said, pickpocketing is a real problem. Make sure to keep your possessions close and wear a money belt.

The abbreviation "S.P.Q.R" is everywhere in Rome. It stands for "Senatus Populusque Romanus" (Latin), i.e. "The Senate and People of Rome".

House of the Vestal Virgins, Roman Forum

Don't go to Rome in August! Most of the city is on vacation. April, May, late September, and October are best.

Allow 3-4 days minimum to see everything Rome has to offer. I suggest walking around to take in Rome beyond the touristy sites and also make sure you visit St. Peter's Basilica.

Rome has two airports: Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA).

• FCO – the preferred airport - is 19 miles outside of the city and is my favorite. The “Leonardo Express” will shuttle you to/from the airport in about 30 minutes for 15 Euro/ticket. However, if you are carrying a lot of luggage, I say splurge on a taxi or a car service (arranged through your hotel) for about 40-50 Euros.
• CIA – is 9 miles outside the city. There is no direct train connecting CIA and Rome’s Termini (train) station. Taxis are approximately 30 Euros. Terravision bus service is a cheaper option.

Dining out is a real experience in Rome, and the last thing waiters want to do is make you feel rushed. Therefore, they won’t give you the check until you ask for it. Simply say: “Il conto per favore” (Pronounced: eel KOHN-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh ) which means “the check, please.”

The gratuity is included in the bill, and extra tipping isn't necessary. If the service warrants it, leave your waiter a little extra.

Buying fake goods is illegal in Rome. Fines can run as high as 1000 Euros. If it's worth the risk to you, know you can expect to haggle a fake handbag down to 60 Euros.

"Via del Corso" is the main street running through Rome.

A typical bus stop sign 

Useful bus routes: 

• 40 Express: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Largo Argentina - Piazza Pia (for St Peter's/Vatican) .
• 64: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Argentina - Vatican
• H: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Argentina - Trastevere.
• 9 (Tram): Trastevere - Argentina (near Piazza Venezia)
• 60: Repubblica - Piazza Venezia - Colosseum - Circo Massimo
• 62: Vatican - Piazza Venezia - Via Tritone (Trevi Fountain) - Barberini - Repubblica
• 81: Vatican Museums - Piazza Imperatore (Spanish Steps) - Piazza Colonna (Trevi Fountain) - Piazza Venezia - Circo Massimo - Colosseum
• 175: Colosseum - Piazza Venezia - Via Tritone (Trevi Fountain) - Barberini - Repubblica - Termini

Bus 64 is convenient…and notorious! Hold your possessions tight, and keep an eye out for thieves.

Bus passes can be purchased at tobacco shops, or Tabacchi, all over Rome. These little shops often, but not always, have signs outside with a ‘T’.

After purchasing your bus pass, it is necessary to validate it as soon as you board the bus. If you have a daily, weekly, tourist, or monthly pass, you only need to validate it the first time you use it. Each bus has at least two yellow validation machines, generally with one on each end of the bus.

TOP 10 TO SEE & DO:


1. Coliseum
Let’s be honest, when you think Rome THIS is what you think about, right? Just try and imagine this huge amphitheater filled with 70,000 spectators watching fierce gladiators fight to the death. See my earlier note and make sure you bypass the line and head to Palatine Hill for tickets.

Outside costumed “gladiators” will take a photo with you, but know in advance it typically costs 10 Euro/each person for one or two photos. Pretty pricey, but then again, when in Rome…

St. Peter's Basilica main entrance

2. St Peter's Basilica (Vatican City)
It doesn’t matter your faith, the home of the Pope is a must see. Tickets are not needed, but it is best to arrive early in the morning. All visitors go through security and then are free to roam the world's largest Christian church.

Depending on your interest, 1 hour should be enough to for St. Peter’s Basilica.  Don’t miss Michelangelo’s famed “Pieta” (on the right, near the entrance) and Bernini's seven-story tall bronze canopy.  Take note: there are no paintings in the Basilica due to candle soot. Make sure to stop and appreciate the many mosaics.

Michelangelo's Pieta

After you look around, why not go deeper into the Vatican? The Sacred Grotto lies underneath the Basilica and holds the tombs of the Popes. The one at the center of the attention is Pope John Paul II. His tomb is secured by 2 guards. Entrance is free and tourists line up and shuffle slowly, winding through this underground lair.

View from St. Peter's cupola

For the best views in Rome, take the strenuous hike up to St. Peter’s cupola. Do know it’s not for the claustrophobic or unfit. To reach the top, you must climb an endless corridor of narrow stairs. Save this for the end of your visit and look for the sign to the right of the main entrance. I suggest taking the elevator or "lift" up (it only goes halfway) and the stairs down. (Hours 8:00 - 4:45PM, Oct - Mar, Cost 7 Euros for elevator, 6 Euros for stairs)

SAVVY TIP: The Pope usually offers prayers (in several languages) on Sunday at 12PM. Get there early and set up camp in the middle of the St. Peter's square near the obelisk.

Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel ceiling

3. Sistine Chapel & the Vatican Museums (Vatican City)
After 4 years of work painting 5,000 square feet of a ceiling, nothing quite compares to Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel which masterfully depicts scenes from the Bible.


Ticket reservations are not only recommended; they are a necessity. Try and reserve the earliest morning appointment to avoid the crowds.  Plan on 2 hours minimum in the Vatican museums and the Sistine Chapel. 

Two things to note: traffic in the Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel move in one direction. So it’s worth stopping and enjoying the Vatican museums and Raphael Rooms on the way to the Sistine Chapel because it is not easy to backtrack and revisit them. Also, don’t forget your tennis shoes (you’ll walk a lot) and pants (no bare knees allowed for men or women).

Although the Sistine Chapel is the highlight, spend some time in the magnificent Vatican museums. They display the Roman Catholic church's vast art collection built up through the centuries. It's so large it can quickly be very overwhelming, but the gallery of maps and the Raphael Rooms should not be missed.

SAVVY TIP: Finding a reasonably-priced, non-touristy lunch spot can be difficult near the Vatican, but try my favorite Dal Toscano. Not much English is spoken, but it's well worth the visit. Try the papardella ragu. Delicious! (Closed Mondays)

Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to ensure your return.

3. Trevi Fountain
It’s positively breathtaking, and one of my favorites! Listen closely and you can even hear it before you even see it. It gets its name because it is at the crossroads of three streets (tre vie) and serves as a beautiful endpoint to an ancient aqueduct that brought water to Rome.

The crowds swarm, but if you are aggressive you'll get that perfect Kodak moment.  Try your best to ignore the pushy salesmen offering useless toys or to take your photo.

Most importantly, don’t forget to throw a coin in the fountain. Tradition says it will ensure your return to Rome one day.

Pantheon

4. Pantheon 
This temple for Roman gods built between 27 and 25 B.C. is free and a easy to visit.  It's also one of Rome's best preserved buildings. 2,000 years later its dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. It's also home to Raphael's tomb.

The oculus (circular window) is a 27 foot wide opening in the ceiling exposing the entire interior to all elements (rain, sun, etc) and serves as the building's only source of light. If you pay close attention, you'll realize the floor is concave - allowing water to flow to the outside.

The Roman Forum 

5. Roman Forum/Palatine Hill

The Forum served as the city center under the Republic. There is a lot to see here, but focus on the following: 

• House of the Vestal Virgins - Six priestesses kept the sacred flame of Vesta burning. The girls came from noble families and were selected at ages 6-10 years, serving 30-year terms. However, virgins would be buried alive if they lost their virginity before their 30 years terms were served. 
• Julius Caesar's tomb 
• Basilica of Constantine and Maxentius - Three vast rounded archways are all that is left of what was the Forum's largest building. 

Afterwards, back track and see Palatine Hill the former residence of emperors and aristocrats. The Hill also offers spectacular view of the Forum.

Mamertime Prison

6. Mamertime Prison
According to legend, this dark dungeon below the church of San Giuseppe is where St. Peter and St. Paul were imprisoned. They are said to have caused a spring to bubble up into the cell and to have used the water to baptize two prison guards. Inmates here received no food often died of starvation.

7. Borghese Gallery
Reservations are required. This museum located on the northern outskirts of the city houses an outstanding collection of works by Bernini & Caravaggio surrounded by one of Europe's most elegant parks. (Closed Monday)

8. Pizza
I know this won't be too hard, but in Rome you can afford to be picky. Avoid the touristy areas because you'll pay double for just a so-so slice. Know Roman pizza is typically thin crusted and served mainly for dinner.

Piazza Navona 

9. Piazza Navona
Look down. You're standing on Rome's first track. Originally built as a stadium in the first century for athletic contests and chariot races, Piazza Navona is now lined with cafes and three lavish fountains. The central fountain was created by Bernini in the 1650s and was so expensive the bread tax was raised to cover the costs. Make sure to check out the surrounding shops; great for souvenirs!

Inside Cul de Sac

10. Cul de sac

Supposedly the city's oldest wine bar, Cul de Sac is the perfect place to sit back and savor Rome (near Piazza Navona). The wine menu reads like a book and food is eclectic, ranging from meats and cheeses to various Mediterranean dishes (try the grape leaves!). Outside tables get crowded fast. Open 12 PM - 4 PM, 6 PM - 12:30 AM

The Spanish Steps

DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME:

•  Piazza Spagna (a.k.a. The Spanish Steps) – lots and lots of steps built in the 1720s…that’s about it. However, right nearby are the flagship stores of Italian designer lines like Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Missoni, and Versace. If that interests you, than it might be worth a visit.
• Piazza della Minerva - right next door to the Pantheon this centers on Bernini's outlandish elephant-supporting-an-Egyptian obelisk sculpture

  

USEFUL LINKS:
Interactive map of Rome

Hidden gem of a hotel near Piazza Navona (Note: no elevator)

Vatican tickets (available up to 3 months in advance)
Borghese Gallery tickets

4 Easy Steps to Cheap Flights

These days you don't need another reason to hate the airline industry. Full flights, outrageous fees, long lines, and delays have become the frustrating norm.

Looking for revenge? Or maybe just a good deal?

Here are the four things you need to know to get the best deal on your next flight:

#1 - Check several websites

Research first with a search engine. I like Orbitz or Travelocity for a domestic flight or Cheapoair for international searches and multiple-leg trips. You pick your favorite; you really can't go wrong. Find which airlines serve your route and which one offers the best price.

Once you've done your research, head straight to the homepage of whichever airline offers the best deal.  It's always best to book directly with the carrier when you can because they typically offer a slightly better rate than the search engines. Plus, you are ensured a seat.

Avoid calling the airlines. Rarely do they offer a better deal, and most charge a phone booking fee of $15-$30.

#2 - Tuesday afternoon

Tuesday = deal day. The game usually starts when one airline discounts a route (say Delta's LGA to LAX, for example) and the other carriers will be forced to follow suit (Continental, American Airlines match Delta's offer). If you wait until Tuesday afternoon, that should be enough time for all the carriers to match other competitors' lower price and you get the best deal on the airline you prefer.

#3 - Act fast

If you see a good price, grab it. Rarely do sales on flights last, and if it's cheaper than competitors it won't stay that way for long.
One month in advance is usually the worst time to buy. I typically have more luck 3 months, 3 weeks, or 3 days in advance, but for some reason purchasing right at that one-month mark is the worst.
Keep in mind some airlines require a 30-, 14-, or 7-day advance purchase.

#4- Be flexible
If you can, try not to use exact dates when searching for a flight. Try the "day before" or "day after" options or "+/-3 days" which will provide you with more possibilities and better offers.  Remember Mondays, Tuesdays, & Wednesdays are typically the cheapest days to fly.

Also, think about flying into neighboring cities, for example instead of Boston try Providence, RI or Oakland, CA instead of San Francisco, CA. If you are flying into New York City, type "NYC" as the airport code instead of specifying LaGuardia, Newark or JFK. You'll get more options at better prices.