Destination: Rome

WHY VISIT?
For over a thousand years, Rome has been considered one of the most powerful cities in the world.

Sure maybe you've seen the Coliseum in the movies or the Sistine Chapel in pictures, but nothing can quite put into words the way you feel when you see all Rome's history, architecture and art in person.

The "Eternal City" is one of those places you need to experience and not just read about. I promise: once you visit, you'll be hooked.

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

The most important rule before you travel to Rome is that you MUST book tickets in advance for the major historical sites. Make sure to use the OFFICIAL site. Otherwise, you will waste many, precious hours waiting in line. This is especially crucial if you want to visit the Sistine Chapel.

Many tour companies offer “Skip the line” tours, but it’s really not necessary. In fact, I dread the big group tour.  It’s so much more fun to explore on your own. Plan ahead, and save time & money.

St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican

No need to book Coliseum tickets in advance because there’s a secret trick. Bypass the long lines just outside and head over to the Palatine Hill entrance (just past the Coliseum, 100 yards to your right). There you can buy a 3-for-1 pass for Palatine Hill, Coliseum, Roman Forum, and use it to skip ahead at the Coliseum.

You don’t need a rental car, and to be honest, you don’t want one. Seeing Rome on foot is very easy. Just be smart and divide your days up by neighborhood. For example, focus on “Ancient Rome” one day, visiting the Coliseum, Roman Forum, & Pantheon, and then do the Vatican another day, etc.

It's Rome and people do speak Italian. Learn the basics to get by, but most locals know at least some English.

Romans are very friendly and violent crime is low. That said, pickpocketing is a real problem. Make sure to keep your possessions close and wear a money belt.

The abbreviation "S.P.Q.R" is everywhere in Rome. It stands for "Senatus Populusque Romanus" (Latin), i.e. "The Senate and People of Rome".

House of the Vestal Virgins, Roman Forum

Don't go to Rome in August! Most of the city is on vacation. April, May, late September, and October are best.

Allow 3-4 days minimum to see everything Rome has to offer. I suggest walking around to take in Rome beyond the touristy sites and also make sure you visit St. Peter's Basilica.

Rome has two airports: Fiumicino (FCO) and Ciampino (CIA).

• FCO – the preferred airport - is 19 miles outside of the city and is my favorite. The “Leonardo Express” will shuttle you to/from the airport in about 30 minutes for 15 Euro/ticket. However, if you are carrying a lot of luggage, I say splurge on a taxi or a car service (arranged through your hotel) for about 40-50 Euros.
• CIA – is 9 miles outside the city. There is no direct train connecting CIA and Rome’s Termini (train) station. Taxis are approximately 30 Euros. Terravision bus service is a cheaper option.

Dining out is a real experience in Rome, and the last thing waiters want to do is make you feel rushed. Therefore, they won’t give you the check until you ask for it. Simply say: “Il conto per favore” (Pronounced: eel KOHN-toh, pehr fah-VOH-reh ) which means “the check, please.”

The gratuity is included in the bill, and extra tipping isn't necessary. If the service warrants it, leave your waiter a little extra.

Buying fake goods is illegal in Rome. Fines can run as high as 1000 Euros. If it's worth the risk to you, know you can expect to haggle a fake handbag down to 60 Euros.

"Via del Corso" is the main street running through Rome.

A typical bus stop sign 

Useful bus routes: 

• 40 Express: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Largo Argentina - Piazza Pia (for St Peter's/Vatican) .
• 64: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Argentina - Vatican
• H: Termini - Piazza Venezia - Argentina - Trastevere.
• 9 (Tram): Trastevere - Argentina (near Piazza Venezia)
• 60: Repubblica - Piazza Venezia - Colosseum - Circo Massimo
• 62: Vatican - Piazza Venezia - Via Tritone (Trevi Fountain) - Barberini - Repubblica
• 81: Vatican Museums - Piazza Imperatore (Spanish Steps) - Piazza Colonna (Trevi Fountain) - Piazza Venezia - Circo Massimo - Colosseum
• 175: Colosseum - Piazza Venezia - Via Tritone (Trevi Fountain) - Barberini - Repubblica - Termini

Bus 64 is convenient…and notorious! Hold your possessions tight, and keep an eye out for thieves.

Bus passes can be purchased at tobacco shops, or Tabacchi, all over Rome. These little shops often, but not always, have signs outside with a ‘T’.

After purchasing your bus pass, it is necessary to validate it as soon as you board the bus. If you have a daily, weekly, tourist, or monthly pass, you only need to validate it the first time you use it. Each bus has at least two yellow validation machines, generally with one on each end of the bus.

TOP 10 TO SEE & DO:


1. Coliseum
Let’s be honest, when you think Rome THIS is what you think about, right? Just try and imagine this huge amphitheater filled with 70,000 spectators watching fierce gladiators fight to the death. See my earlier note and make sure you bypass the line and head to Palatine Hill for tickets.

Outside costumed “gladiators” will take a photo with you, but know in advance it typically costs 10 Euro/each person for one or two photos. Pretty pricey, but then again, when in Rome…

St. Peter's Basilica main entrance

2. St Peter's Basilica (Vatican City)
It doesn’t matter your faith, the home of the Pope is a must see. Tickets are not needed, but it is best to arrive early in the morning. All visitors go through security and then are free to roam the world's largest Christian church.

Depending on your interest, 1 hour should be enough to for St. Peter’s Basilica.  Don’t miss Michelangelo’s famed “Pieta” (on the right, near the entrance) and Bernini's seven-story tall bronze canopy.  Take note: there are no paintings in the Basilica due to candle soot. Make sure to stop and appreciate the many mosaics.

Michelangelo's Pieta

After you look around, why not go deeper into the Vatican? The Sacred Grotto lies underneath the Basilica and holds the tombs of the Popes. The one at the center of the attention is Pope John Paul II. His tomb is secured by 2 guards. Entrance is free and tourists line up and shuffle slowly, winding through this underground lair.

View from St. Peter's cupola

For the best views in Rome, take the strenuous hike up to St. Peter’s cupola. Do know it’s not for the claustrophobic or unfit. To reach the top, you must climb an endless corridor of narrow stairs. Save this for the end of your visit and look for the sign to the right of the main entrance. I suggest taking the elevator or "lift" up (it only goes halfway) and the stairs down. (Hours 8:00 - 4:45PM, Oct - Mar, Cost 7 Euros for elevator, 6 Euros for stairs)

SAVVY TIP: The Pope usually offers prayers (in several languages) on Sunday at 12PM. Get there early and set up camp in the middle of the St. Peter's square near the obelisk.

Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel ceiling

3. Sistine Chapel & the Vatican Museums (Vatican City)
After 4 years of work painting 5,000 square feet of a ceiling, nothing quite compares to Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel which masterfully depicts scenes from the Bible.


Ticket reservations are not only recommended; they are a necessity. Try and reserve the earliest morning appointment to avoid the crowds.  Plan on 2 hours minimum in the Vatican museums and the Sistine Chapel. 

Two things to note: traffic in the Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel move in one direction. So it’s worth stopping and enjoying the Vatican museums and Raphael Rooms on the way to the Sistine Chapel because it is not easy to backtrack and revisit them. Also, don’t forget your tennis shoes (you’ll walk a lot) and pants (no bare knees allowed for men or women).

Although the Sistine Chapel is the highlight, spend some time in the magnificent Vatican museums. They display the Roman Catholic church's vast art collection built up through the centuries. It's so large it can quickly be very overwhelming, but the gallery of maps and the Raphael Rooms should not be missed.

SAVVY TIP: Finding a reasonably-priced, non-touristy lunch spot can be difficult near the Vatican, but try my favorite Dal Toscano. Not much English is spoken, but it's well worth the visit. Try the papardella ragu. Delicious! (Closed Mondays)

Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain to ensure your return.

3. Trevi Fountain
It’s positively breathtaking, and one of my favorites! Listen closely and you can even hear it before you even see it. It gets its name because it is at the crossroads of three streets (tre vie) and serves as a beautiful endpoint to an ancient aqueduct that brought water to Rome.

The crowds swarm, but if you are aggressive you'll get that perfect Kodak moment.  Try your best to ignore the pushy salesmen offering useless toys or to take your photo.

Most importantly, don’t forget to throw a coin in the fountain. Tradition says it will ensure your return to Rome one day.

Pantheon

4. Pantheon 
This temple for Roman gods built between 27 and 25 B.C. is free and a easy to visit.  It's also one of Rome's best preserved buildings. 2,000 years later its dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. It's also home to Raphael's tomb.

The oculus (circular window) is a 27 foot wide opening in the ceiling exposing the entire interior to all elements (rain, sun, etc) and serves as the building's only source of light. If you pay close attention, you'll realize the floor is concave - allowing water to flow to the outside.

The Roman Forum 

5. Roman Forum/Palatine Hill

The Forum served as the city center under the Republic. There is a lot to see here, but focus on the following: 

• House of the Vestal Virgins - Six priestesses kept the sacred flame of Vesta burning. The girls came from noble families and were selected at ages 6-10 years, serving 30-year terms. However, virgins would be buried alive if they lost their virginity before their 30 years terms were served. 
• Julius Caesar's tomb 
• Basilica of Constantine and Maxentius - Three vast rounded archways are all that is left of what was the Forum's largest building. 

Afterwards, back track and see Palatine Hill the former residence of emperors and aristocrats. The Hill also offers spectacular view of the Forum.

Mamertime Prison

6. Mamertime Prison
According to legend, this dark dungeon below the church of San Giuseppe is where St. Peter and St. Paul were imprisoned. They are said to have caused a spring to bubble up into the cell and to have used the water to baptize two prison guards. Inmates here received no food often died of starvation.

7. Borghese Gallery
Reservations are required. This museum located on the northern outskirts of the city houses an outstanding collection of works by Bernini & Caravaggio surrounded by one of Europe's most elegant parks. (Closed Monday)

8. Pizza
I know this won't be too hard, but in Rome you can afford to be picky. Avoid the touristy areas because you'll pay double for just a so-so slice. Know Roman pizza is typically thin crusted and served mainly for dinner.

Piazza Navona 

9. Piazza Navona
Look down. You're standing on Rome's first track. Originally built as a stadium in the first century for athletic contests and chariot races, Piazza Navona is now lined with cafes and three lavish fountains. The central fountain was created by Bernini in the 1650s and was so expensive the bread tax was raised to cover the costs. Make sure to check out the surrounding shops; great for souvenirs!

Inside Cul de Sac

10. Cul de sac

Supposedly the city's oldest wine bar, Cul de Sac is the perfect place to sit back and savor Rome (near Piazza Navona). The wine menu reads like a book and food is eclectic, ranging from meats and cheeses to various Mediterranean dishes (try the grape leaves!). Outside tables get crowded fast. Open 12 PM - 4 PM, 6 PM - 12:30 AM

The Spanish Steps

DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME:

•  Piazza Spagna (a.k.a. The Spanish Steps) – lots and lots of steps built in the 1720s…that’s about it. However, right nearby are the flagship stores of Italian designer lines like Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Missoni, and Versace. If that interests you, than it might be worth a visit.
• Piazza della Minerva - right next door to the Pantheon this centers on Bernini's outlandish elephant-supporting-an-Egyptian obelisk sculpture

  

USEFUL LINKS:
Interactive map of Rome

Hidden gem of a hotel near Piazza Navona (Note: no elevator)

Vatican tickets (available up to 3 months in advance)
Borghese Gallery tickets