Destination: Venice, Italy

WHY VISIT?

Ahhhhhh Venice. Is there any place on Earth more romantic?

To be honest, this is one of the few destinations I recommend you throwing out that guidebook (read this first though, of course!) and just enjoy the city in all of it's glory.

Ride in a Venetian gondola and savor the unique, slow-paced atmosphere or stroll the 117 tiny islands that make up this northeastern Italian city.

Tourism is its lifeblood: 50,000 tourists visit the city every day so plan in advance and then just wing it once you get there!


THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO:

If you are arriving by airplane there are two ways to get to Venice: 1) public transportation using a ACTV bus and then trasferring to an ATVO boat (a.k.a. vaporetto) for 6.50 Euro or 2) a private water taxi for 90 Euro.

My vote is use the practical and money-saving route. Save the 90 Euro for a much more enjoyable gondola ride later.

So here's how you do it:

After grabbing your bags at the airport, bypass the ATM-looking machines and head to the human teller (to your left before you leave the aiport). Ask him for either a one-way or roundtrip ride into the city center. Outside the aiport there are several buses. Look for this sign for "Venezia Express":


The buses run every 30 minutes or so. The ride is 30 minutes to Piazzale Roma, and costs 3 Euro.

From Piazzale Roma, hop on a vaporetto or water bus. If you are staying in Venice for a few days, save money and buy a week-long or multi-day pass.


A multi-day pass also makes it easy to jump on and off the vaporetto as often as you would like. Just don't forget to validate your ticket each time on one of these machines below.



Vaporetto are very easy to ride. On the side of the boat you will see the stops and look at the arrows to see which direction it is traveling (see below). I suggest sticking with Route #1. It stops at all the major attractions as it zig zags from bank to bank as it follows the Grand Canal.


There are six neighborhoods/districts: San Marco, Cannaregio, Castello, San Polo, Santa Croce & Dorsoduro.

Consider avoiding Venice's high-season summer crowds (and from what I hear foul smells from the Canal) and visit during the shoulder seasons. However, do know January-March can be cold.

Public bathrooms are rare, and forget restaurants or stores letting you use theirs. That won't happen. Instead, look for "WC" signs and stickers on sidewalks, and be ready to pay. Public bathrooms cost 1.50 Euro/each. If you are lost, just ask a local: "Dove (dough-vay) toliet?" They'll get the picture.

Eat gelato, but look for the good stuff. "Artigianale" is Italian for the old-fashioned way. Anything else is just imitation.

Banks are typically open 8:30 AM – 1:30 PM, Monday -Friday. Plan in advance.

1KM = appx. ½ mile

Make late night, dinner reservations. Dinner in Venice can run anywhere from 8-11 PM. Sometimes kitchens are not even open earlier than that. Popular places fill up early so plan ahead.

TOP 10 TO SEE & DO:

1. St. Mark's Basilica
   Free to enter and "ooo and ah", but make sure to pay the money to see the main alterpiece Pala d'Oro up close and personal. Also climb the steep steps up to the museum for a look at the original Greek horses dating from about 1254.

2. Gondola ride & the Grand Canal
   Does it get any more Venetian? Sure it's expensive, but it's worth it! Plan on paying 80 Euro for a day ride and 100-150 Euro for an evening trip. Feel free to haggle, but make sure to specify a trip up the Grand Canal to pose with the Rialto Bridge.
   If a gondola ride isn't in the budget, cross the Grand Canal on a traghetto - a stripped down gondola visitors take across the width of the Grand Canal for 0.50 Euro. Know it is customary to stand for traghetto rides.

3. Rialto Bridge & market area
   Here is where you'll find local fisherman in action and all the souvenirs you can handle. Grab a glass of vino on the Grand Canal and soak it all in.

4. Explore
   Put away your travel guide and map and just mosey. It's the best way to see the "real" Venice. And don't worry, Venice is completely surrounded by a lagoon so it's impossible to leave the city on foot. If you are a planner like me, just ask your hotel for a business card or map before you head out to ensure you'll find your way home.

5. San Polo/Rialto bridge area at night
   Venice is not known for its nightlife. In fact, it can feel downright deserted once the sun goes down and businesses close up for the day. Try dinner at Naranzaria at San Polo 130 and then walk a block west for wine in the square at Al Merca.

6. La Boutique del Gelato
   My favorite gelato in all of Italy...and that's saying something! Look for it north of the Rialto bridge next to Hotel Bruno, #5727 (Daily 10:00-8:30, Closed Dec–Jan) Stracciatella (chocolate chip) is my favorite!

7. Bellinis at Harry's bar
   The peach juice and Prosecco drink was invented here and was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway. Make it a pre-dinner drink because 17 Euros for a Bellini can make for an expensive evening.

8. Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
   Known to locals as the "Frari". The must-see here is Titian's huge oil painting, "Assumption of the Virgin".

9. Piazza San Marco
   St. Mark's Square is really more of a trapezoid than a square, but nevertheless serves as the city center. Feed the piegons and enjoy the beautiful views of St. Marks Basilica, the campanile (bell tower) and Doge's Palace.

10. Palazzo Ducale & the Bridge of Sighs
    The palazzo (or palace), home to Venice's Doges (dukes) for more than 1,000 years, stands between St. Mark's and the mouth of the Grand Canal.
    The "secret itineraries" tour comes highly recommended. Those tours run at 10:30am Thursday through Tuesday (by reservation only) and cost 16€ ($21) for adults. Phone: 041-271-5911
    The Bridge of Sighs was the last view Venice convicts saw before prison so it is said they would sigh at the beautiful sight of Venice before taken down to their prison cell.

DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME:

• The museums - the city itself is the artwork. Stick with the more famous galleries in Florence & Rome.
• Spending a day on the islands - Murano (known for its famous glass) and Burano (known for lace) should only be done if there is extra time
• Beware of fake Murano glass in stores
• Limoncello - was created in Naples - NOT Venice
• Buying an expensive bottle of wine. The house stuff is really quite good.

USEFUL LINKS:
The best reasonably-priced hotel
ACTV vaporetto map
Dinner on the Grand Canal by the Rialto Bridge